3 Days in Paris, France: A Perfect First-Timers Itinerary
The Eiffel Tower glittering against a pink-stained sunset. Wandering through sweeping, maze-like gardens and past gilded mirrors at Versailles. Dark, skull-filled catacombs 65 feet below the Parisian streets. Paris, France is a dream destination for many people because of the romance, the Eiffel Tower, the historic buildings, the baguettes, and other ineffable qualities that could only be described as “Parisian”. If you’re reading this, you’re probably one of these people, and 3 Days in Paris, France will help you see all this and more!
Ernest Hemingway once wrote, “There are only two places in the world where we can live happy–at home and in Paris.” This is true! There is something so magical and unique about Paris, yet comfortable–where you can sit and people watch in an unassuming cafe or repose along the banks of the Seine and watch the boats roll by. It’s a place to stroll down the streets past the famous limestone facades with nothing on the agenda but absorbing the ambiance–that’s the Parisian way.
So whether you want to live your Emily in Paris, Amélie, or your own personal Parisian fantasy, there is always more magic right around the corner in Paris!
Psst: Planning a trip to France or Europe? Here are some other posts:
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Paris Travel Tips
Before you don your favorite beret and striped shirt and head off to the airport here are a few tips to help you prepare for your trip.
When’s the best time to go to Paris?
Paris is at its best in summer (June-August), because it doesn’t get too hot (usually 70-80s F) but it’s mostly sunny and days are long so you can maximize your time strolling through the streets.
Alternatives are spring (mid-April to June) when everything starts to bloom and days are still cooler between 65 and 70F (pack some warm clothes because the weather can be changeable) or September to October when the city is framed by colorful autumn leaves.
Unless you want to see Paris at Christmas or for a crowded New Year’s Eve, avoid winter as you can’t enjoy the terrace and café culture and it gets cold and rainy.
How do I get to Paris?
Depending on where you’re coming from, you’ll most likely fly into the Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, which is located to the northwest of Paris, and takes about an hour by train to get to the center of the city. If you’re coming from another part of Europe, you can easily take a train.
How do I get around Paris?
Transport is quite inexpensive (except for the specific airport transport), but it’s even cheaper if you plan ahead. You’ll definitely want to take advantage of the Metro and the buses, so purchasing a 3/5-day pass is your best bet.
Generally, unless there is a bus stop right outside your hotel, opt for the metro. It’s much more reliable and faster as Paris traffic is slooooow and congested. I once waited for a bus at midnight for 30 minutes that never came, so the Metro is the way to go.
Get the CityMapper app which is much better for navigating in Europe than Google Maps (or the local RATP app if you understand some French) ahead of time if you need help navigating the metro. The most confusing thing about the Metro is the signage is not always great, so it takes a bit of intuition. Also, there are so many stairs sometimes.
Check out this fabulous Metro guide for some additional tips.
Do I need to know French?
It’s a tourist city and you will get by with English at all major attractions, but some French people in smaller establishments will be less willing to speak English.
The biggest thing is to say “bonjour” when you enter a shop or restaurant, as it’s considered respectful to acknowledge the person you’re interacting with. Never underestimate the power of a good “bonjour”.
Being able to order in French is a nice way to show you’re a respectful tourist as well, and your server or shopkeeper will usually switch to English anyway.
Aren’t there a lot of Pickpockets?
Pickpocketing is common in Paris, especially in very crowded areas (namely around the Eiffel Tower and on the steps of the Basilique du Sacré Cœur) and public transport (looking at you, metro line 6!). I was told by a Parisian tour guide that pickpockets, especially by the Basilique du Sacré Cœur, will ask you to sign a petition “for the blind” to get closer to pickpocket you. If anyone approaches you, say “no merci” and walk away!
Don’t assume the worst of people and don’t let it ruin your holiday, but take some basic safety measures such as only taking the necessary items with you each day, making sure your wallet or phone isn’t on display and keep an eye (and hand!) on your bag when in a crowded metro. Wearing a crossbody bag (like this small one or this bigger one) is a good way to keep your valuables safe, and look stylish!
For more tips, check out our Paris first-timers where-to-stay guide (suggestions for this particular itinerary at the end!)
3 Days in Paris, France
You could spend a lifetime in Paris and not see it all – but three days will give you some of the highlights of what makes Paris so special. You’ll get a taste for blood, er, red wine which will leave you wanting more! The itinerary begins on Friday evening and lasts through Monday afternoon, giving you a weekend in Paris to don your beret, gnaw on a baguette, and find the true joie de vivre!
3 Days in Paris, France: Friday
- Today you’ll explore a little of Montmartre, get dinner, check out the gorgeous Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre, and head to the world-famous Moulin Rouge!
Today is arrival day for Paris, where you’ll head from the airport to Montmartre, the arrondissement (district) you’ll be staying in. There are plenty of amazing areas of Paris to stay in, but Montmartre has a special Parisian flair and history that makes it different from the rest. When you think of postcard Paris, Montmartre is the image that probably comes to mind.
Montmartre is the highest point in Paris, where the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre perches overlooking the city like a white, glittering jewel. This also means from Montmartre you have the best views of the city, which naturally, is très romantique. Montmartre is also the home to artists (more on that later), and if you’re a fan of the 2001 movie Amélie like I am, you will transported into a world of fantasy.
Once settled into your hotel (recommendations following the itinerary), you’re going to spend the evening exploring Montmartre!
Explore Montmartre and Get Dinner
As I mentioned, Montmartre is very hilly, so you’ll want to put on your best walking shoes (for him and her) to ascend the hills and winding streets.
Montmartre was its own village until 1860 when the city of Paris annexed it, and shortly after many artists such as Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Edgar Degas, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Pablo Picasso, and Vincent van Gogh flocked to Montmartre during the Belle Époque. Today it still maintains its artistic flair, especially at the top of the hill at the Place du Tertre, the bustling public artist square.
Make your way up here to the Place du Tertre on your evening stroll and peruse the 140 artist spaces that over 300 artists use on alternating days (there’s also a 10-year waiting list for a spot). You’ll see paintings of famous Parisian landmarks, as well as plenty of tourists getting their portraits painted or caricatures drawn. In high school my husband had his portrait done here… unfortunately, it doesn’t look much like him, to his eternal chagrin!
Place du Tertre has some of the best people-watching, from stylish Parisians taking a stroll to every kind of tourist you can imagine. Sit at one of the corner cafes, we chose La Bohème Montmartre. You’ll find most of the cafes in this area are geared towards tourists (for good or ill), and the staff speaks English and generally have pretty outgoing personalities. We had a server who whistled, meowed, and made bird noises–he was quite the character.
Most cafes serve toasted bread and olive tapenade as an appetizer gratis. For our entree at La Bohème Montmartre, we chose the Coquillettes with truffle cream and white ham chiffonade, or otherwise elbow pasta in a truffle cream with thinly sliced ham overtop. This was one of our favorite things we had in Paris, it just really hit the spot–decadent, buttery pasta with flavorful ham on top. It was the pick-me-up we needed after traveling and paired perfectly with a glass of red wine.
Check out the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre and the Best View of Paris
Once you’re done eating and drinking your (second?) glass of wine, head towards the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre, which is only a few blocks away and easily spotted by its huge dome!
Sacré-Cœur stands high on the hill of one of the most scenic spots in Paris, and took a whopping 44 years to build. As you approach it you’ll see sweeping views of the entire city from its steps–The Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, The Panthéon, and almost every other large monument can be spotted in the distance! The first evening we visited this spot, tourists lined the steps listening to a guitarist cover American songs, and a rainbow appeared over the city. While I can’t guarantee a rainbow, I can guarantee great views!
The Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre is free to enter, and as you do you’ll join a long throng of people processing through the church at a slow pace, eagerly taking in the impressive blue and gold mosaics of the dome, the glorious silver statues scattered throughout, colorful stained glass windows, and lighting candles to send prayers up to the heavens. Catholic or not, this is one of the most stunning churches and is meant to be revered, from the elegant interior to the self-bleaching white limestone of the exterior.
If you want an even higher view of the city, you can climb 237 steps up the dome itself! The dome is open until 8:30pm from June to September and until 7pm from March to April (don’t worry if you can’t make it tonight, you’ll have a chance tomorrow too), and you enter at the left side of the church for a small fee. The climb is arduous, up a spiral staircase with no handrails, but if you make it to the top you can see even more sweeping views of Paris!
After you finish your Paris peeping from whichever height you choose, you can take the stairs in front of the basilica down to the bottom of Montmartre, past colorful gardens, fountains, and love locks that have been put on fences. Head back to your hotel and get ready for an evening show at… The Moulin Rouge!
See a Show at the Moulin Rouge
When we think of France, especially Montmartre, the Moulin Rouge is usually what comes to mind! The Moulin Rouge is undeniably one of the most famous shows in the world, one that inspired a movie, then a Broadway musical based on the movie. The Moulin Rouge is in Montmartre, so you can easily walk from your hotel room!
The Moulin Rouge first opened in 1889 (the same year the Eiffel Tower was completed) and is the birthplace of the can-can dance. It was also the first electric building in Paris! One of the main draws of the Moulin Rouge today is it still maintains the Belle Époque charm, with its lush red interior, heart-shaped latticework, mirrors, posters from the 1880s, soft lighting from crimson table lamps–it really is like stepping back in time.
The show itself pays tribute to the past, while also being rooted in the present. There are plenty of fun smaller acts like acrobats and acrobats on roller skates, but the real star of the Moulin Rouge are the large, group numbers. Sacnitly clad dancers in red ostrich feathers swirl and dip, pirates dance and fight searching for jewels and gold, (dare I say) sexy clowns parade around the stage, and can-can girls in blue, white, and red show us what the Moulin Rouge was made famous for all these years ago.
People are a bit polarized on the Moulin Rouge–yes the venue is big, and yes it’s aimed at tourists–but it is what you make it. If it sounds like fun and you’ve always wanted to go, go! It’s a fluffy, silly romp that is as Parisian as can be. Make sure to get your tickets in advance!
3 Days in Paris, France: Saturday
- After a night of joyous revelry at the cabaret, it’s time to start your morning with a food tour!
This morning you’ll be winding around the streets of Montmartre again, but seeing more, learning more, and most importantly, tasting more!
We took a 3-hour long Montmartre Food & Wine Tour with Eating Europe and it was a highlight of the trip, because we got to explore more of beautiful Montmartre with a Parisian guide who could answer questions, and most importantly, teach us how to spot a good baguette (more on that in a minute).
The tour starts at 10:30am (make sure you book in advance), and takes you back up the winding streets of Montmartre. Along the way, you’ll try things like Shue pastry, crepes, some of the best macarons in Paris, chocolate from a shop where the chocolatier has 24 Michelin stars, and even an epic charcuterie spread paired with red and white wines.
One of my favorite parts of the tour was stopping by a boulangerie (bakery) which won the award for the best traditional baguettes in Paris, earning the owner the right to make baguettes for the president. You can only win this award once every 4 years… and he won it twice!
Our excellent guide Lulu also explained to us how to find a legit boulangerie: 1.) In order to use the title “boulangerie” they have to make their own bread, 2.) AB on the sign means organic, 3.) The baker’s name will be on the sign (generally “Maison ____”) signaling pride in their bread, and 4.) People are coming in and out of the shop! This little trick works for pretty much all food shops in Paris!
Besides the food, of which there is plenty, you’ll pass by places where Edith Piaf once rendezvoused with her Pianist lover, where Picasso had his studio, the famous Instagram-friendly Pink House, the only working vineyard in Paris proper, Place du Tertre, and many other locations that will give you the true flavor (hehe) of Montmartre.
The tour ends at the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre around 1:30pm, so enjoy a nice daytime view of Paris, or go up into the dome if you didn’t get to last night!
While you could spend the rest of the afternoon getting drunk in Place du Tertre with a father and daughter you just met from LA perusing all the other secret nooks and crannies of Montmartre, I think it’s time we move on–there is plenty more Paris to see!
Walk along the Champs-Élysées and see the Arc de Triomphe
One of the quintessential Parisian activities is walking along the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, window peeping into the luxury stores you can’t afford (or maybe you can, I don’t know your life!). While it’s perhaps not the most cultural, it gives you time to do a leisurely Parisian stroll and head towards a significant relic–the Arc de Triomphe!
Start at the Concord Metro station, from which you can take an easy 1.25-mile walk through the Jardin des Champs-Élysées and onto the tree-lined street, the Arc in the distance waiting for you to arrive.
In order to get on the Champs-Élysées (called ‘les Champs’ by Parisians), you’ll walk through the Place de la Concorde, a huge public square with the 3300-year-old, Egyptian “Luxor Obelisk” and two breathtaking fountains, the Fontaine des Mers and Fontaine des Fleuves. Fun fact: Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, as well as 1119 other people, were guillotined during the French Revolution in this very square. Fun!
As you stroll, you’ll pass Ladurée, the mint-green pastry shop known for its famous Macarons (just save some room for dinner!). If shopping is your thing, you can stop in the likes of Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, etc., just expect lines and bag checks at the door.
The Avenue des Champs-Élysées terminates at the Arc de Triomphe, commissioned by Napoleon to celebrate France’s military triumphs, and was completed in 1836 after taking three decades to construct. The Arc is 164 feet tall, and beneath it is housed the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, honoring all the unknown lives lost during WWI with an eternal flame in remembrance.
When you approach the Arc, you may notice the huge traffic circle with careening cars that encircle the masterpiece and think “How the hell will I ever reach it”. Well, luckily there is an underground pedestrian tunnel with an entrance on les Champs!
If you want to get even closer than just looking at it, you can get tickets to step inside the Arc which allows you to take the 284 steps to the top for a sweeping view of les Champs and the surrounding area, which includes the other Avenues and the Eiffel Tower!
It’s also good for working up an appetite, and once you’re finished, it’s time to…
Get Dinner Close to the Arc
It’s no surprise there are a ton of amazing food options in this area, so here are a couple that are worth checking out:
- Le Restaurant Le V – This French restaurant boasts an ornate stained-glass dome ceiling designed by Gustave Eiffel, which in itself is a reason to visit! Underneath this chic dome, you can try things like Ceviche of sea bream, beef tenderloin, or get a prix fix meal and really indugle.
- Sir Winston – If you’d like something more whimsical and a little less French, Sir Winston takes queues from British and Indian fare with things like fish and chips, lamb curry, and their decadent sharing platters with things like crispy calamari, hummus massala, crab croquettes, and more. The interior is seriously stunning too with an Indian and British blend, perfect for photos!
After dinner, you can walk to your next destination (the Eiffel Tower) if you have time, which is about a mile-and-a-half journey from the Arc. If you don’t want to walk, it’s just a short Metro ride!
Cruise along the Seine and Go Up the Eiffel Tower
Seeing Paris from the Seine River is to see Paris in a whole new way–The Musée d’Orsay, Notre Dame, and of course, the Eiffel Tower all rolling by as you sip champagne, the golden rays of the setting sun glimmering off the water. Some may say this is the height of romance, and they would be correct. I think experiencing Paris is best at a slow pace with the one you love (even if that’s just yourself).
We booked an Eiffel Tower Tour with Seine River Cruise with the Tour Guy. It’s so great to have a guide because I have found a lot of things in Paris are, well, confusing and aren’t often self-explanatory. If you really want to do a Seine cruise and go up the Eiffel Tower–and learn a good chunk about Paris–I highly recommend this tour.
The Seine cruise lasts an hour, and includes a glass of champagne, and on a warm night you can stand outside on the deck of the boat and watch the gilded statues, limestone buildings, and people picnicking along the shores.
After your relaxing cruise, your guide will take you from the boat to the Eiffel Tower, get you through security, and to the front of the line to take you up the elevator! Along the way, your guide will point out the 72 scientists’ names (all men, of course) that surround the tower, tell you the story of how the cables were cut during Hitler’s visit so he couldn’t go up the tower, how it was really only meant to be temporary, and so much more!
Once you arrive on the second level, you’ll see sweeping views of Paris, which includes Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe, Sacre Couer Basilica and Montmartre, La Défense, The Louvre, and basically all of Paris–it’s quite the magical view
As you’ll be there at sunset during this tour, you’ll also see the tower aglow with its 20,000 sparkling, golden lights, which happens for 5 minutes on the hour and stops after 11:05pm. It’s ecstatic once they begin, with gasps and cheers from those standing underneath the lights. One of the many ways that Paris continues to enchant.
What I don’t think is enchanting, however, is going to the very top of the Eiffel Tower. While your tour includes a ticket that will get you to the tippy top (though not guided), taking you from the 377-foot second floor to the 906-foot top, I am not sure the journey paid off like I thought it would.
You need to wait in a disorganized line to get both up and down, ride a cramped elevator, and from the top you can’t see much more than from the second level. For one thing, it’s evening time so it’s just hard to see, and also the higher up you go the tinier everything is! Plus the platform at the top is much smaller, full of people, and if you’re claustrophobic or afraid of heights, this is probably not going be your jam, or as the French say, confiture.
Once you’re done taking in the sites from the tower, it’ll be around 11pm, which is a perfect time for you to turn in for the night! If you need a snack, I’d recommend taking transport back to the area by your hotel and looking for something–we tried to catch a bus around midnight (they were supposed to be running) and it never came… nor did the second one. After considering taking a bike for about 10 seconds we eventually hailed a cab. Don’t tempt fate with Paris transport!
3 Days in Paris, France: Sunday
- Today you’ll be traveling to a very special and ostentatious palace called the Château of Versailles, which Sofia Coppola built to be the set of her 2006 movie Marie Antoinette. Mais oui, I’m kidding!
Explore the Château of Versailles
A brief history: Versailles started as a simple hunting lodge by King Louis XIII, expanded by Louis XIV and in 1682 it became the main residence of the French Court and government, hosting lavish receptions in the hall of mirrors. During the reign of Louis XV, the court moved to Vincennes and then Paris, but he continued to work on the Palace. Today, Versailles is mostly known as the legendary home of King Louis XVII and Marie Antoinette, who lived lavishly as their subjects starved, eventually leading to the French Revolution and the guillotine severing both of their heads.
Versailles is located about 45 minutes away by train from Montmartre and requires a special RER C ticket to get to. Did we have the correct ticket to get to Versailles? No. Though our ticket let us get to Versailles it didn’t let us through the exit gate, but luckily a nice woman working the gate spoke English, explained we had the wrong ticket, but let us through anyway with a smile (so much for the French being “rude”!). You may not be so lucky however, and could potentially be fined, so read this Paris by Train guide to find out how to procure the correct ticket!
Once you exit the station, you’ll head to the right down the Avenue du General de Gaulle, then a left on the Avenue de Paris. Through the tree-lined streets, the impressive gates of the palace will appear, with Versailles sitting stately in the background. Once through security at the gates, you’ll join your timed ticket group and wait to get admitted. Arriving early is the name of the game, so try to get your ticket for 10am (opening time) and well in advance.
One of the first things you may notice walking up to the Palace, besides its impressive size, are the gilded gates and accents with the face of Louis XIV with sun rays emanating from behind. He was known as the “sun king”, the sun being a symbol of Apollo, the god of peace and the arts. Inside and out, the palace has golden, glimmering accents, emblematic of the immense luxury of the Kingship. These gates are not original though, as the original gates were destroyed during the French Revolution, but rebuilt in 2008.
Inside, you’ll meander through the many rooms of the palace, through the intricate reds and golds of the King’s private apartment and the floral print of Marie Antoinette’s chamber. You’ll get to peek inside the Royal Chapel, with its organ, painted ceiling, and towering columns, which is one of the best-preserved areas of the palace from Louis XIV’s reign.
The gasp-worthy star of the palace is the Hall of Mirrors. At around 240 feet long, this room includes 30 paintings of French political successes covering the ceiling, 17 arched windows, and a whopping 357 mirrors. This passageway was a social area where courtiers would cross and meet, as well as the area that connected the King’s and Queen’s private apartments (if these mirrors could talk!). This is also where the Treaty of Versailles was signed on 28 June 1919, ending the First World War.
Lunch in the Gardens
After all the madness inside the Palace, it’s nice to step outside into the fresh, French air. The Gardens of Versailles cover about 5 square miles, with over 800 statues and over 50 fountains. Some of these fountains and statues are large-scale, like Apollo’s Fountain (more Sun King imagery), while others are hidden within the intricate maze that is the formal gardens. Through each archway of towering hedges, you’ll find new gods and goddesses in the middle of placid water features, and even a “secret” garden cafe where you can have lunch.
Outside of the palace, you’ll see the Orangery Garden to the left, which houses, you guessed it, orange trees as well as lemon, pomegranate, and oleander trees, over 1200 in all. Viewing it from above, you’ll see the geometric, curling pathways that make it one of the greatest masterpieces in the entire garden.
Make your way down into the heart of the main garden, exploring more statues, fountains and pathways. Once you’re hungry, make your way towards La Girandole, the aforementioned garden cafe. Here you’ll find a good combination of salads, hot plates like fish and chips and burgers, as well as sandwiches, like the chicken curry sandwich I had. This is a great, shady place for a rest and recharge, to explore more of the garden, and onwards to the other parts–and dare I say better parts–of the grounds.
Walk to the Trianon Palaces and Marie Antoinette’s Estate
So you think you have seen it all since you’ve walked through the palace and the gardens? Hahahaha. No, not yet.
In the back right corner of the gardens, you will find the Av. de Trianon which will take you to the other palaces–The Grand Trianon, Petit Trianon, as well as Marie Antoinette’s Estate. When you’re rich and royalty you need a place to get away from courtiers, so you retreat to other palaces within walking distance!
If you have time, check out the Grand and Petit Trianon, but definitely don’t miss Marie Antoinette’s Queens Hamlet, which was, and still is, a working farm with vineyards, orchards, vegetable and flower gardens and more. She would spend time with friends and her children here, often dressed in a sun hat and informal muslin dress, and take in the quiet life.
It’s a stark change from the gilded palaces, but still one of the most well-manicured farms you’ll ever see, with a tower, a lake, gardens, and plenty of little hidden spots to enjoy. Compared to the hustle and bustle of Versailles, it’s easy to see why she’d want to get away!
Explore the Île de la Cité and get Dinner
After your regal adventures at Versailles, it’s time to get a change of scenery and grab dinner. The Île de la Cité is a little island in the middle of Paris, which is home to famous sites like Notre-Dame (scheduled to reopen December 8, 2024), Sainte-Chapelle with its stunning stained glass windows (you’ll need tickets in advance), and the Square du Vert-Galant park overlooking the Seine.
This is a great area to stroll around, and if you’re a book lover, cross the river and head to the English language bookshop Shakespeare and Company, where literary ex-pats like Allen Ginsberg, Anaïs Nin, Henry Miller, James Baldwin and many others were among early visitors to the shop. There will most likely be a line outside, but don’t worry as it moves quickly, and then you can peruse the shop of so many amazing and unique titles. The best part is you can get a Shakespeare and Company stamp in front of your book for free, which makes a wonderful souvenir.
On the island, grab dinner at Les Deux Colombes (the two doves), a cozy, authentic Parisian restaurant that overlooks the beautiful Hôtel de Ville across the Seine. The area is quiet and calm, the service is friendly, and the presentation of the dishes is seriously stunning.
If you haven’t already, this is a great place to try onion soup, or try the charcuterie board or the small roasted camembert with honey as a starter. As far as mains, they cook a perfect duck confit or confit lamb, and I know it’s a common thing, but the cheeseburger is perfect. The star of the show however may be the brioche French toast for dessert, with vanilla ice cream and caramel coulis with salted butter–it’s moist and spectacular.
After dinner, the final activity of the evening is just a 20-minute Metro ride away!
Descend into the Paris Catacombs
65 feet below the streets of Paris lies a secret–that secret involves bones. The bones of over 6 million people.
Since antiquity, limestone quarries were dug around the outskirts of Paris, which provided the materials for Gallo-Roman monuments to eventually become the material for most of Paris’s cream-colored buildings, including Notre Dame and the Louvre Fortress.
The underground quarries dug in medieval times started to become a literal hell when they started collapsing in the 1770s, swallowing bits of the city and terrorizing Parisians. Authorities realized they needed to fill some of these voids before they were filled with people… well, living people anyway.
In 1777 the General Inspectorate of Quarries (what a title) set out on a mission to map, consolidate, and ensure safety in these underground tunnels. Today there are over 185 miles of tunnels winding through the city. But what about them bones?
The Cemetery of the Holy Innocents was the largest in Paris, where galleries of arcades of skulls and bones were essential out in the open bringing fears of disease, especially in the 18th century. The final straw was when in 1780 a mass grave of the cemetery collapsed into the cellars of neighboring houses, which was no doubt very surprising to find your basement filled with bones when you went down expecting wine.
So the Parliament of Paris closed the cemetery, had the Archbishop bless the catacombs, and started transferring the human bones over the cover of night over the next 15 months. They continued to stock the catacombs with more bones from different cemeteries and used them as a burial ground during the revolution.
In 1809 the new General Inspectorate of Quarries cleaned up the catacombs, turning them into an oussary (where they make the bones all pretty and organized)… Which exists to this day. And you can visit.
A visit to the Paris Catacombs is self-guided, and they give you a handy listening device, which explains the history as you descend 131 steps into the underbelly of Paris. As you walk almost a mile through the catacombs, you’ll wind through where the limestone was extracted eventually coming across the ossuary (which is really only maybe the last quarter of the catacombs). Above the entrance, it reads in French: “Stop! This is the empire of the Dead!”
Among the bones stacked in arranged, macabre piles, there are some famous remains, such as those of French fairytale writer Charles Perrault (Cinderella, Little Red Riding Hood, Sleeping Beauty), Robespierre, architect Salomon de Brosse, who designed Luxembourg Palace, and painter Simon Vouet.
The experience is surreal and uneasy, but ultimately natural (as natural as stacked bones can be), and it is a great place for contemplation of memento mori. The Scorpio in me loved it–my Piseces husband didn’t resonate with it so much.
Since you will be visiting Versailles earlier in the day, get your Catacombs tickets for around 7pm (7:15pm is the latest time you can get them for). Tickets are released a week out (to the hour), and should be bought from the official website.
So ends your final full day in Paris. Now that you’ve seen all these dead bones–ready for bed?
3 Days in Paris, France: Monday
- Today is your final half-day, which includes the Louvre and lunch before you depart!
You can’t visit Paris without going to the Louvre, allegedly, and though I was interested to see it I didn’t think it was going to be as brilliant as it was. We stayed for about four hours, and while we saw plenty, we didn’t nearly see everything. One visit simply isn’t enough!
The Louvre is another experience in Paris that I am really going to recommend a guided tour. The museum is huge, winding, and a bit confusing, especially if you want to hit the highlights. Although we had a timed ticket for 10am, we still had to wait in line to get through security and get scanned in… which took an hour and fifteen minutes, even from the “secret” indoor entrance (so much for secrets).
But a guided tour like this one allows you to skip the line–your tour guide takes you right up to the front and gets you in–then takes you to the masterpieces and explains them! This tour specifically aims to show you the big hitters of the Louvre, such as the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the Winged Victory of Samothrace. Besides that, you’ll check out other monumental Renaissance and ancient Greek relics and paintings from the 13th to 19th centuries.
Your guide will also take you down to the basement of the Louvre Palace, to see the foundations of the castle that once stood on the site and learn the history of it! This would have been great for me and my husband, as we walked around the very large and imposing basement with the castle walls, trying to find our way out of the Louvre. I am sure the guide could have pointed the way out!
But don’t leave yet, as after the tour you will have free reign of the museum. I loved the Mesopotamian section, which houses the oldest works in the Louvre and other treasures like the Palace of Sargon II. Of course, the Egyptian section is stunning, with plenty of mummies, coffins, Sphinxes, and statues. Speaking of statues, the whole floor dedicated to Italian statues cannot be missed–the detail is so crisp they seem like they may spring to life.
While you can leave for lunch, your best bet is probably just grabbing lunch at the Louvre if you want to keep exploring after your tour (which starts at 10:15am and ends around 12:15pm). This was you can refuel and see other areas before you leave!
Where to Stay for this Paris 3-Day Itinerary
Monmarte is definitely the place to stay if you need to live your Amélie fantasy and what I recommend for this itinerary! Just note that the closest stations to the hotels below have – at least partly – steps only access to the street so if you have luggage, be prepared to carry it at least a little.
- For a historic feel, the Lepic 29 is ideal. While the hotel interior is modern, you are located on a historic shopping street and the closest you could be to Montmartre Cemetery, the famous resting place of many artists. Wake up, look out from your balcony, have breakfast on the terrace in front of the hotel, and then start exploring.
- The best view – and yet the cheapest option! – is at Le Village Montmartre hostel where you can see the Cathedral if you book a private room. And even at the cheapest price, breakfast is included and the rooms and bathroom are colorful but elegant with an imposing, freestanding bathtub (in the room).
- To be as close as possible to the nighttime action, stay at Hotel Basss which is right by the lively Boulevard de Clichy. Though the bathrooms are a little dated the rooms are modern and clean and you can look out onto the roofs of Montmartre from your balcony.
About The Author: Richie Goff is a Louisville, Kentucky native with a great love of the outdoors. When he is not growing flowers for fun, he is the Editor-in-Chief of Practical Wanderlust and Let’s Go Louisville. He has been a friend of Lia’s since high school, and they have taken plenty of their own disaster-prone adventures together!
What are your thoughts on our itinerary for 3 Days in Paris, France? Let us know below!
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